Removing a wall between two rooms — typically to create an open-plan kitchen/diner or a larger living space — is one of the most popular home improvement projects. When done correctly, it transforms the way you use your home. When done incorrectly, it can be dangerous and costly to rectify.

Step 1 — Is the Wall Structural or Non-Structural?

The most important question before any wall comes down is whether it is load-bearing. A load-bearing (structural) wall supports the weight of the structure above it — floors, roof, or other walls. A non-structural wall (also called a partition wall) simply divides space and carries no load.

Signs a wall may be structural:

• It runs perpendicular to the floor joists
• It sits on a foundation or sits directly above a wall on the floor below
• It is a gable end or spine wall
• Joists appear to bear onto it from both sides

Never rely on a visual inspection alone. Always have a structural engineer confirm whether a wall is load-bearing before any work begins.

Step 2 — Structural Engineer and RSJ Specification

• If the wall is structural, a steel beam (RSJ — Rolled Steel Joist) will need to be installed to carry the load previously taken by the wall. The structural engineer calculates the correct size and specification of the beam based on the span and the load it needs to carry.
• The engineer will also specify the padstones — the concrete or engineering brick supports at each end of the beam that distribute the load into the walls below. Getting these wrong is as dangerous as getting the beam wrong.

Step 3 — Temporary Propping

• Before the wall comes down, the load above it must be temporarily supported. This is done using acrow props and strongboys (temporary steel supports) positioned on either side of the wall to carry the weight while the beam is installed.
• Propping must be done correctly and must remain in place until the beam, padstones, and any masonry above are fully set and load-bearing. This is not a stage to rush.

Step 4 — The Opening and Beam Installation

• With propping in place, the wall is carefully removed. The padstone positions are formed, the steel beam is lifted into position — often requiring specialist equipment for larger beams — and the masonry above is made good.
• The beam is typically boxed in with plasterboard and skimmed to create a seamless finish, though some homeowners choose to leave beams exposed as a feature.

Step 5 — Building Regulations

• Any structural alteration to a property — including removing a load-bearing wall — requires Building Regulations approval. A building control inspector will want to see the structural engineer's calculations and will inspect the work at key stages.
• A Completion Certificate is issued on sign-off. Without this, you will face difficulties when selling the property.

What About Non-Structural Walls?

• If the wall is confirmed as non-structural, the process is significantly simpler. The wall is removed, any services (electrics, plumbing) that run through it are rerouted, and the floor, ceiling, and adjacent walls are made good and replastered.
• Building Regulations may still apply if the wall has a fire-separation function — for example between an integral garage and the house.

What Will It Cost?

Costs vary depending on whether the wall is structural and the size of the opening. As a rough guide:

• Non-structural wall removal: £1,000–£3,000
• Structural wall with RSJ (small beam): £3,000–£6,000
• Structural wall with large beam: £6,000–£10,000+

This typically includes structural engineer fees, beam supply and installation, making good, and plastering. Decorating, new flooring, and any kitchen alterations are separate.

Wittick Building Tip: At Wittick Building, we manage the full process — from arranging the structural engineer through to plastering and making good. We handle all building control notifications and ensure the job is signed off correctly.